![]() I just found a 3157 brake bulb uses 26.9 watts (power), so should have current of 2.24amps (26.9W/12V=current), therefore a resistance of 5.35 ohms (12V=2.24amps * resistance, resistance =12V/2.24amps). The ones linked above on amazon are plenty of power rating (you can never have too much power rating). If you use the right resistance, but too low of power rating, it will overheat. Use 12V and the wattage (power) of the stock bulb you are replacing to figure out what resistance and what power resistor you need. The formulas are Voltage=ampsXresistance and Power=amps squared X resistance, and Power=voltage X current, if I recall. Reality doesn't always comply with logic, but logic would say that if you put a resistor and an LED in place of a bulb, as long as the resistor matched the bulb resistance, no computer or flasher would know what you did. More resistance needs less power rating because it will run less current. Don't cover your heatsink because that's all the power rating is about (heat dissipation). The power rating you need will depend on the resistance you choose, but 6 ohms lines up at about 25w. He did tell me that in his experience, Chrysler seemed to put a huge margin of error for timing on 4.0s and there definitely is room for improvement.That link looks good. I can say Chris's tune provided my stockish 4.0 with a very noticeable gain in power and drivability! So there is definitely room for improvement on the table. My experience with Jeep SBEC's are they have a built in Latch chip so just a regular run of the mill 27sf256 chip will work in the socket. I was able to put a socket on a spare SBEC-II I had in order to have Chris tune it for me. Socketing them is pretty easy if you know how to solder and are patient. The later ones are flashable, but the earlier ones need to be socketed. The cool thing with these SBEC-IIs are theyre pretty cheap, plentiful and interchangeable. I only bring it up to mention it is possible and has been done before by professionals. Aka, We made a gentlemen's agreement him I would keep the tune he sold me away from the internet and I respect that. Though we agreed that any effort on turbo-mopar would be separate from the tune he provided me. He also does jeeps and did end up street tuning my OBD-1 jeep. Separate form this effort, I actually purchased a tune from Chris Jensen, who is known for tuning SBEC/JTEC based Vipers and such. The effort that was mounted was to figure out the tables for the Jeep ECUs in order to utilize MPTune to be able to write new calibrations. There exists a suite of tools called MPTune and MPScan that are written by one of the very talented guys on Turbo-Mopar that allow for datalogging and tuning of these old chrysler ECUs. There's been some good progress on reverse engineering the code and finding 3d tables/parameters for OBD-1 jeeps. Turns out the SBEC-II in jeep is similar, though not identical to the SBEC's used in turbo chryslers and others. While my knowledge is limited on engine management, Ive been giving a few of the guys over there a hand with testing/figuring out some of this stuff. There's actually been a concerted effort to tune the sbec-2 for jeeps over on. There is way more tuning support for GM ECM's.I know this thread has been dead for 5 years, but for those interested. and alt.), and hooking up the harness and I should be in business. I have decided to instead, to convert it over to a GM 1227727 ECM. This thread acted like it was gonna take off and go somewhere, but ended up smashing into a brick wall. Its a great ecu, tough and durable, but as far as tuning support, there pretty much none. I have pretty much all but given up on the stock Jeep ECM. ![]()
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